Sitting with Ptarmigan on Verstovia

Light overcast with broken marine layer early, becoming clear by mid-morning. Light winds and temperatures in the upper 40s.

Last night I had been planning on going on a hike this morning. Upon waking and seeing overcast conditions, my motivation to get out on a hike diminished.

I heard tapping outside (which I think I also heard in the past day or two). It sounded a little metallic, so I wondered if a sapsucker was testing out the vertical metal pipe which guides the power line into the house.

Red-breasted Sapsucker
Red-breasted Sapsucker drumming on a bird house in Sitka, Alaska

I was right about the sapsucker, but wrong about what it was hammering on. It seemed intrigued by the resonance of a bird house Connor had put up a few years ago.

As skies cleared, I motivation for hiking returned. I had originally been considering trying to get to Bear Lake, but with a later start, that seemed overly ambitious. I also thought about the Don’t Panic route, and drove out the road to at least take a look. In the end, I went with Verstovia Trail.

With no calls to be on today, I was curious how fast I would be able to make it to Picnic Rock. I did have a pack, probably slightly lighter than last week.

Stream Violet (<em>Viola glabella</em>)
Stream Violet (Viola glabella) along Verstovia Trail in Sitka, Alaska

Violets have started blooming at the beginning of the trail. I saw fern-leaf goldthread blooming multiple places along the way.

Mt. Edgecumbe
View from the 800 feet viewpoint along Verstovia Trail in Sitka, Alaska

I took a moderate pace which I intended to be sustainable. It got me to the first viewpoint in just under 25 minutes. After I short break, I continued on.

View from 1200 Feet
View from the 1200 ft viewpoint on Verstovia Trail in Sitka, Alaska

In the 12-15 minutes it took me to get to the second viewpoint, I noticed my legs starting to feel tired. After a longer break, I pushed further up the trail.

Sitka Rocks
I have no idea how long this rock with eyes has been watching over the switchbacks section of Verstovia trail, but I hadn’t noticed it before today.

I made slower but reasonably steady progress with only short pauses going up the switchbacks. After another break at the start of the ridge (reached after 1 hour 12 minutes), I proceeded in similar fashion to Picnic Rock (changing tree at 1 hour 31 minutes, and Picnic Rock at 1 hour 44 minutes).

Nearing the End
If the distance is correct, this marker is 1000 feet higher and 0.4 miles further along the trail than the last one. By this point, the end isn’t quite in sight, but it’s getting closer.

Snow was still present on the ridge, but not as much as last week. There was also noticeably less snow at Picnic Rock.

View from near Picnic Rock

With sunshine, calm air, and enough bare rock to lay down on, I spent the better part of two hours mostly relaxing and enjoying the warmth of the sun.

The sound of wings catching the air very nearby caused me to open my eyes and look. A Dark-eyed Junco foraged on the rocks nearby. I had heard him tentatively singing further away a few minutes before.

Bald Eagle
Bald Eagle soaring above Picnic Rock in Sitka, Alaska

I periodically checked the soaring birds in case one might turn out to be something other than a Bald Eagle or raven. I did not see anything else, but did hear a Red-tailed Hawk.

Feeling a bit more refreshed after relaxing, I started moving around a bit.

I thought I heard a Willow Ptarmigan and focused my attention in the direction the sound had come from.

Willow Ptarmigan
The calls of this male Willow Ptarmigan near Picnic Rock drew my attention

A male walked across the snow at the edge of the trees and shrubs southwest of Picnic Rock.

Willow Ptarmigan

Making my way across the I was able to get a better looks at the male as he moved around.

Willow Ptarmigan

A female was also present, though I soon lost track of her among the shrubby hemlocks.

The male’s occasional calls helped me figure out where he had gone and I spent time slowly following him.

Willow Ptarmigan Feeding
Mostly the ptarmigan seemed to be eating on blueberry branches, but in this case it appeared to be going for Alaska mountain heather (Harimannella stellariana)

He seemed to accept me hanging around, and I was able to sit and watch him eating from 15-20 feet away for half an hour or so.

Sounds like the tapping of a woodpecker working a tree made me briefly wonder if there was a woodpecker around. Then I realized the sounds corresponded with the ptarmigan reaching out for a branch.

Willow Ptarmigan Feeding
This pair of photos highlights the tip of a blueberry branch before and after being browsed by the ptarmigan

I think the sound was from its bill snapping shut. I had assumed it was eating only buds, but in one photo I could see where the a section at the end of a branch was removed. This may explain the sound. The speed with which the branches were trimmed and consumed was remarkable.

It moved on out of sight, and I was thinking I would go back up to Picnic Rock.

Willow Ptarmigan

On my way, I saw it sitting under a tree so postponed my return.

He seemed to be settling in to rest and was not particular concerned with me.

As I held my camera up for photos of, the smell of pot surprised me. I was curious, but didn’t think too much about it. Walking back up to Picnic Rock, I started smelling it again and wondered if someone might be there. Indeed, as I walked up, there were two people sitting on the exposed rock. I didn’t seem them smoking, but I’m pretty sure at least one had been.

My legs felt much fresher after 4 hours mostly resting.

I went down faster than I have on previous outings this year. I made it back to the trailhead in 50 minutes. My legs held up pretty well, other than feeling a little bit in my knees.

I wonder if my legs felt more tired on way up because I had eaten before leaving, or if it was something else. If something else, it’s interesting I wasn’t feeling it so much going down.

For future quick reference, timings for the way up:

  • 1sst Viewpoint: 24:45
  • 2nd Viewpoint: 49:30
  • Ridge: 1 hour 12 minutes
  • Changing Tree: 1 hour 31 minutes
  • Picnic Rock: 1 hour 44 minutes

My iNaturalist Observations for Today

Leave a Reply